Synagogues and Cathedrals

A few days ago it was my day to choose our sight-seeing destinations.

I told Ben that I wanted to go on a ramble and explore a number of areas that weren't too far from each other.  The first was a museum on Jewish history in Odessa.  Apparently at one time 70% of the population here in Odessa was Jewish.  After WWII and revolutions and a major emigration since Ukraine became independent, only about 3% of the people here are Jewish.  I was eager to see what the museum had to offer.

But we couldn't find it. Our map was poor and and we didn't have even a picture to go by. Finally we found a Jewish cultural center and went in to ask.  I have become pretty good at saying in Russian that I don't speak Russian and asking if they speak any English.  They usually say no, but then when I mention what we are looking for, they can often give pretty good English directions. They speak oodles more of our language than we do of there's. It is truly remarkable.

In this case the museum was across the street at a black door. Seemed easy enough. But there were three black doors, and all needed codes to get in. We asked another person and were told to go to a black gate and ring the bell.

We found the gate, and since it was open we walked though.  We were in a back alley/courtyard that didn't seem to be the right place at all!  But after exploring a bit, we found a sign in front of a roll-down door for the museum. There wasn't any way for us to get in and didn't seem to be anyone to ask, so we walked out and walked on. I was very disappointed. Perhaps it is an appointment only sort of place.  (We have since looked it up on the web, and apparently it is hard to find but a worthwhile visit, so we will try again and hope the roll-down door is open next time.)

Next up on our ramble was the Jewish Synagogue.  Visiting it was a delightful experience!!  There used to be 78 working synagogues in the city but now there are only two. We couldn't tell if we were going to be allowed to go in, but decided to try. No one stopped us, but we did begin to be tailed by a guard. That was odd.  We felt quiet and reverent and hoped he could see that we valued his religion and this beautiful building.  When we approached the door to the main hall we decided to turn and ask him if we could go in. He spoke some English and led the way.

We stood at the back.  A partician blocked us off from the front of the hall, but we looked with wonder at the ceilings and the other parts of the hall that were visible. Ben says we were in the women's section.  There were book shelves and people studying and talking. In the front we could see some stained glass and hear multiple discussions going on.  The room felt full of life and learning.  I longed to see it all, but didn't feel it appropriate to ask.  We stood in quiet thought for about 5 or 10 minutes and then turned to go, thanking the guard for the honor of being able to see the sanctuary.

Beneath the synagogue is a kosher restaurant called Hebron. We decided to have lunch there. We ordered from an English menu and then began to see that there might have been an easier way.  The tables were set for lunch goers who would sit down, order from a limited set of options that were listed on a paper on the table, and be served right away.  A large lunch of juice, rolls, soup, meat, pasta, and sautéed mushrooms was served for about $3.75 in U.S. money.  Our dishes were not part of that setup, so it took longer and cost more, but we sure enjoyed what we had.

 It was neat to see the students come in for lunch. About 15 or 20 of them came in, washed their hands at the sink provided, and headed into a back room. Most were in their mid 20s, vibrant and full of energy.





Earlier in the day, while we were looking for the Jewish museum, we came upon a Greek Orthodox cathedral, Church of the Holy Trinity. I always love going inside cathedrals. The architecture is glorious and the paintings are fantastically ornate. Almost every surface is exquisitely decorated.  The inside echoes with holiness and solemnity.  Most of the time when we have been in mosques or cathedrals on this trip, they have been quiet spaces where a handful or two of people were quietly worshipping and lighting candles. Once, though, at St. Michael's Cathedral in Kiev we happened upon a worship service. The priests were singing and performing religious rites.  Standing there and listening was an incredible experience, one I will never forget.

The cathedral we were in had pictures depicting the creation of the world, Adam and Eve, Moses and the serpent on the rod, and many other stories from the Bible.  I enjoy seeing the emblems of worship in these wonderful buildings.  But it was very different from the Jewish Synagogue.  The quiet was replaced by study and discussion.  A different approach to church worship.

Ben wondered aloud to me later what blessings we might receive from the Lord if we were willing to spend the time studying that those Jewish students were spending.  I confess that I have lengthened my scripture study time since then.  I love how the faith of others strengthens my own.